Foundations & BB creams – INCI ingredient analysis

Foundation evens out the visible tone of the skin and is applied with fingers, a sponge or a brush, usually over skincare and sometimes over a primer. Coverage and finish vary widely, from sheer tinted moisturisers and BB creams to fully opaque, long-wear liquids. Most formulas are emulsions, either oil-in-water or water-in-silicone.

Colour comes from TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) and iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), often surface-treated with TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE or DIMETHICONE for better dispersion. Silicones such as DIMETHICONE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE or DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER shape the texture, emulsifiers like PEG-10 DIMETHICONE hold the phases together, and fillers such as SILICA or NYLON-12 affect the finish.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE can serve two purposes: as a white pigment, listed as CI 77891, or as a UV filter under Annex VI. Products that claim an SPF must list their UV filters, which often appear near the top. Shades of the same foundation may differ only in the proportion of oxides, so ranges frequently use one INCI list with a “may contain” section.