Sunscreens – UV filters and INCI ingredient analysis

Sunscreens are applied to exposed skin before going outdoors and reapplied over the day, especially after swimming, sweating or towelling. They are sold as creams, fluids, milks, oils, sprays and sticks, and labelled with a sun protection factor (SPF) for UVB and, in the EU, a UVA logo when they meet the recommended UVA protection.

Only UV filters listed in Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation may be used, each with a maximum concentration. Organic filters include ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, OCTOCRYLENE and ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE; mineral filters are TITANIUM DIOXIDE and ZINC OXIDE. Around them you will find emollients, film formers such as ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, antioxidants and water-resistance agents.

If an ingredient is used as a nanomaterial, the word [nano] must follow its name, which is common with mineral filters. Under the Commission Recommendation on sunscreen efficacy, UVA protection should be at least one third of the labelled SPF, and terms such as “sunblock” or “total protection” should not be used. Spray products also list propellants or alcohol near the top of the list.