Sun care – ingredient lists and UV filter analysis

Sun care covers three categories: sunscreens, after-sun products used once you are out of the sun, and self-tanners that colour the skin without UV exposure. Sunscreens are the most strictly regulated of the three, because the UV filters that provide the protection are a closed list of approved substances. Sunscreens also have specific labelling conventions for the protection level.

In the EU, every UV filter used in a cosmetic must be listed in Annex VI of the Cosmetics Regulation, with maximum concentrations. On labels they appear under INCI names such as BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, OCTOCRYLENE or TITANIUM DIOXIDE, sometimes marked [nano]. Self-tanners usually rely on DIHYDROXYACETONE, often with ERYTHRULOSE.

After-sun products are typically light emulsions or gels with GLYCERIN, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE, PANTHENOL or ALLANTOIN. When reading sun care labels, check the full set of UV filters rather than a single name, look for [nano] markings and note whether fragrance or alcohol, such as ALCOHOL DENAT., is present. Water resistance and the SPF value are stated separately on the pack.