Hair conditioners – ingredient lists and INCI analysis

A conditioner is applied after shampoo, mainly to the lengths and ends, left for a minute or two and rinsed out. It makes wet hair easier to detangle and leaves it smoother to the touch. Compared with hair masks, conditioners are usually lighter and meant for every wash; leave-in versions are listed in a separate category.

The core of nearly every conditioner is an emulsion of fatty alcohols, typically CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETYL ALCOHOL or STEARYL ALCOHOL, with a cationic surfactant such as BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, BEHENAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE or DISTEARYLDIMONIUM CHLORIDE. This combination gives the creamy texture and the smoothing effect on the hair surface. It also explains why conditioners look very similar on paper.

Beyond this base, conditioners may add silicones such as DIMETHICONE or AMODIMETHICONE, oils like ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL, PANTHENOL, hydrolysed proteins and humectants. An acid such as LACTIC ACID or CITRIC ACID adjusts the pH. Preservatives commonly include PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM BENZOATE or POTASSIUM SORBATE. Some conditioners are designed without silicones, which is visible only in the ingredient list.

A short look at the label usually tells you a lot: if the cationic agent and fatty alcohols sit directly after AQUA, the product follows a classic structure. Fragrance and its named allergens are listed near the end, as are many of the extracts highlighted in the product name. Comparing two conditioners side by side often shows how small the differences in the base really are.