Anti-dandruff shampoos – INCI lists and analysis

Anti-dandruff shampoos are used like regular shampoos but usually with a few minutes of contact time on the scalp before rinsing, as described on the pack. Cosmetic anti-dandruff shampoos are distinct from medicated shampoos authorised as medicines, which follow pharmaceutical rules and are not covered by cosmetic labelling. The category gathers both everyday and more intensive formulas.

The cleansing base resembles that of other shampoos, with SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE or milder surfactants such as SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE. What sets these products apart is an anti-dandruff ingredient: commonly PIROCTONE OLAMINE, CLIMBAZOLE, SALICYLIC ACID or SELENIUM DISULFIDE. Some also contain ZINC CARBONATE or plant-derived ingredients such as tea tree oil.

Several of these ingredients are regulated in the annexes of the EU Cosmetics Regulation with maximum concentrations, and SELENIUM DISULFIDE is allowed only in anti-dandruff shampoos. ZINC PYRITHIONE, once widely used in this category, has not been permitted in cosmetics placed on the EU market since 2022, so it no longer appears on current EU labels.

When reading the label, look for which anti-dandruff ingredient is present and where, along with the surfactant system and fragrance. Many anti-dandruff shampoos also contain conditioning polymers such as GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE or POLYQUATERNIUM-10 to make hair easier to comb. The front label rarely names the active ingredient, so the INCI list is the quickest way to find it.