Curly girl method: silicones, sulfates and how to read hair product labels
The curly girl method comes with a list of ingredients to avoid: sulfates, silicones, drying alcohols. What these groups look like on an INCI list, why curly-hair routines treat them carefully, and where the rules are simpler than they seem – or more complicated.
Updated: 31 October 2026 · Reviewed by: Kamil Pyziak
What the curly girl method is
The curly girl method is a hair care approach popularised by stylist Lorraine Massey’s book “Curly Girl: The Handbook”. Its core idea is that curly and wavy hair tends to be drier and more fragile than straight hair, so routines should focus on gentle cleansing, generous conditioning and avoiding ingredients that strip or coat the hair.
It is a practical routine, not a scientific standard, and versions of the “approved” and “not approved” ingredient lists differ between communities and apps. Still, the method is a good reason to learn how to read hair product labels, because the ingredient groups it discusses are easy to recognise once you know the names.
Sulfates and other cleansing agents
The method usually avoids sulfate surfactants, which are effective at removing oil and dirt and can leave curly hair feeling dry. Typical INCI names are Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. Many followers also treat Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate in a similar way: it is not a sulfate, but it is a strong cleanser.
Gentler alternatives commonly found in “low-poo” shampoos include Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate. Some routines also use “co-washing”, i.e. washing with a cleansing conditioner. How harsh a shampoo feels depends on the whole formula, not just on whether it contains a sulfate.
Silicones: which ones and why
Silicones such as Dimethicone, Amodimethicone or Dimethiconol form a smooth film on the hair, reduce friction and add shine. The method’s concern is that some silicones are not readily removed by mild, sulfate-free cleansers and may build up over time, leaving hair feeling heavy.
That is why many curly routines distinguish between silicones. Water-soluble silicones, often with “PEG” or “PPG” in their name such as PEG-12 Dimethicone, are generally regarded as easier to rinse out. Volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane evaporate after application. Amodimethicone is debated: it binds preferentially to damaged areas of the hair, and opinions differ on how easily it washes out. In practice, build-up depends on the product, the amount and how you wash.
Alcohols, conditioners and other ingredients
Curly routines often avoid drying, volatile alcohols such as Alcohol Denat. or Isopropyl Alcohol high on the list of leave-in products. Fatty alcohols are a different matter: Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol are waxy, softening ingredients that are standard in conditioners and fully compatible with the method.
Typical conditioning ingredients include cationic surfactants such as Behentrimonium Chloride or Cetrimonium Chloride, conditioning polymers such as Polyquaternium-10 or Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, humectants such as Glycerin, plant oils and butters, and proteins such as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Styling gels typically contain film-forming polymers that help curls keep their shape. Waxes and mineral oils are avoided in some versions of the method because of build-up concerns.
How to check a label in practice
Read the whole INCI list rather than relying on a “CG-friendly” sticker. In shampoo, look at the first few ingredients after Aqua: that is where the main cleansing agents are. In conditioners and stylers, scan for names ending in “-cone”, “-conol” or “-xane”, which usually indicate silicones, and check whether they are water-soluble or volatile.
An ingredient checker or the ingredient pages on INCIMondo can help you identify names you do not recognise. Keep in mind that the method is a framework: many people adapt it, and what works depends on hair type, porosity, water hardness and personal preference.
What the label does not tell you
The INCI list does not show concentrations or how a product will behave on your hair. A small amount of a silicone in a rich formula may behave differently from a silicone-heavy serum, and two sulfate-free shampoos can feel completely different. The list also cannot tell you whether build-up is actually happening on your hair.
If you notice unusual hair loss, scalp irritation or flaking that does not improve, that is a question for a pharmacist, doctor or dermatologist rather than for an ingredient list.