Exfoliating enzymes and physical scrubs: papain, bromelain and scrub particles after the microbead ban
Besides acids, there are two other ways to remove dead skin cells: enzymes that loosen them and particles that rub them off. What papain, bromelain and subtilisin do, which scrub particles replaced plastic microbeads and how to spot both on an INCI list.
Updated: 31 October 2026 · Reviewed by: Kamil Pyziak
Three ways to exfoliate
Exfoliation means helping the skin shed the dead cells on its surface. Cosmetics do it in three main ways: chemically with acids such as AHAs, BHA and PHAs, enzymatically with proteolytic (protein-splitting) enzymes, and mechanically with particles or tools that rub cells away. Acids are covered in a separate guide; this one is about enzymes and scrubs.
Enzymes and scrubs are often marketed as gentler or more “natural” alternatives to acids. Whether a product is gentle depends on the formula, the concentration and how often and how hard it is used, not on the category alone.
Papain, bromelain and subtilisin
Papain comes from papaya (Carica papaya) and bromelain from pineapple. Both are proteases: enzymes that break down proteins. On the skin, they are used to loosen the protein-based bonds that hold dead cells together, so the surface looks smoother. Subtilisin is a protease produced by bacteria of the genus Bacillus and is also used in cosmetics and, more widely, in detergents.
On an INCI list, look for Papain, Bromelain, Subtilisin or the general term Protease. Be careful with fruit extracts: Carica Papaya Fruit Extract or Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract may contain some enzyme activity, but an extract is not the same as a purified, standardised enzyme, and the label does not tell you how active it is.
Enzyme peels in practice
Enzymes are proteins and therefore sensitive to heat, pH and water. That is why they are often sold as powders – enzyme washes or powder exfoliants – that are activated by mixing with water just before use, or in formulas designed to protect their activity. A product that has been stored badly or for too long may simply lose its effect.
Because enzymes are proteins, they can act as sensitisers, and inhaling enzyme dust is a known occupational issue in industries that handle them. For consumers this mainly means using powder products as directed, avoiding creating clouds of powder and stopping if the skin reacts.
Physical scrubs: what replaced plastic microbeads
For years many face and body scrubs relied on plastic microbeads, often Polyethylene. Under the EU restriction on intentionally added microplastics (Regulation (EU) 2023/2055), synthetic polymer microparticles used as microbeads in rinse-off products for exfoliating or cleansing were the first group to be banned, from 17 October 2023. Our guide to microplastics explains the wider restriction.
Today you will see natural or mineral particles instead: Juglans Regia Shell Powder (walnut shell), Prunus Armeniaca Seed Powder (apricot kernel), Oryza Sativa Powder (rice), Coffea Arabica Seed Powder (coffee), Sucrose (sugar), Sodium Chloride (salt), Pumice, Hydrated Silica or Silica, and Cellulose. Jojoba Esters are often supplied as small, round, waxy beads that melt or soften on the skin.
Gentle or harsh: what makes the difference
With scrubs, the size, shape and hardness of the particles matter. Round beads and fine, soft particles are generally considered gentler than irregular, sharp-edged fragments of crushed shells or kernels. Sugar and salt dissolve as you work, which limits how long they scrub. Pressure and frequency matter as much as the ingredient: rubbing hard every day can irritate even a mild product.
Combining several exfoliating products – an enzyme powder, an acid toner and a grainy scrub – increases the risk of irritation. Exfoliants are generally not recommended on irritated, sunburnt or broken skin. If you have a skin condition such as acne, rosacea or eczema, ask a dermatologist which kind of exfoliation, if any, is suitable.
What the label does not tell you
The INCI list does not reveal the activity of an enzyme, whether it is still active at the time you use it, or the size, shape and hardness of scrub particles. Two products listing Juglans Regia Shell Powder can feel very different depending on how finely the shells are ground.
Words such as “gentle”, “enzyme peel” or “micro-exfoliating” are marketing descriptions. Test a new exfoliant on a small area first, follow the instructions on frequency, and remember that exfoliated skin can be more sensitive to the sun.