Microplastics in cosmetics: the EU restriction on synthetic polymer microparticles explained

From microbeads to a broad EU restriction

For years, tiny plastic beads were used in scrubs and shower gels for exfoliation. Concern about their release into wastewater and the environment led many manufacturers to phase them out voluntarily. The EU then went further: Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/2055, adopted under the REACH chemicals framework, restricts synthetic polymer microparticles that are intentionally added to products – not only in cosmetics, but also in detergents, toys, sports pitches and many other uses.

The restriction entered into force in October 2023. It is not part of the Cosmetics Regulation itself, but it applies to cosmetic products placed on the EU market.

What counts as a “synthetic polymer microparticle”

In simplified terms, the restriction targets very small, solid particles made of synthetic polymers that do not dissolve in water and do not readily degrade. Particles of this kind persist in the environment once released.

The definition contains important exclusions. Natural polymers that have not been chemically modified, polymers that are biodegradable or water-soluble according to the criteria in the regulation, and certain other cases fall outside the scope. This is why many polymers used in cosmetics are not affected: whether a polymer is covered depends on its form and properties, not merely on the fact that it is a polymer.

A phased timeline

The restriction applies in stages. Some uses, such as microbeads used for exfoliating or cleansing in rinse-off products and loose plastic glitter, were affected from the start. For other cosmetic uses the regulation sets transition periods of several years, so that manufacturers have time to reformulate.

Rinse-off products have shorter transition periods than leave-on products, and the longest periods apply to make-up, lip and nail products, where finding alternatives is considered most difficult. For some of these products, information requirements apply during the transition. The exact dates are set out in the regulation.

Ingredient names you might see

Polymers that can be used as solid particles in cosmetics include Polyethylene, Nylon-12, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polypropylene and some acrylate polymers such as Acrylates Copolymer or Acrylates Crosspolymer. Plastic glitter is often based on Polyethylene Terephthalate. They have been used for exfoliation, as fillers for a soft-focus effect, for texture or for shimmer.

Many other polymers, for example thickeners such as Carbomer or Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, are dispersed, swollen or dissolved in the formula and serve a completely different purpose. Whether a particular grade meets the definition of a microparticle is a technical question. Alternatives used by formulators include Silica, Cellulose, starches, mineral-based effect pigments such as Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, and ground plant materials.

Claims such as “microplastic-free”

Labels like “microplastic-free” or “no microbeads” are voluntary claims. They must be truthful and must not mislead, but they can be based on different definitions – some brands use a broader understanding of “microplastics” than the EU restriction, others a narrower one.

If the topic matters to you, look at both the claim and the INCI list, and check whether the brand explains which definition it uses.

What the label does not tell you

An INCI name identifies the chemical substance, not its physical form. The list does not show whether a polymer is present as solid particles, what size they are, or whether that grade is soluble or biodegradable – exactly the properties that decide whether the EU restriction applies.

Polymers can also be present in small amounts as coatings or carriers within other raw materials, for example on pigments. So a polymer name on a label is a reason to look more closely, not proof that a product contains microplastics – and the absence of familiar names is not proof of the opposite.