Mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum and petrolatum in cosmetics: the facts
Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Cera Microcristallina: petroleum-derived ingredients are among the most debated on INCI lists. What they are, what they do, how EU rules address purity, and where the real questions lie.
Updated: 31 October 2026 · Reviewed by: Kamil Pyziak
What the names mean
Mineral oils and waxes are mixtures of hydrocarbons obtained from crude oil and then extensively refined. On EU labels the liquid form usually appears as Paraffinum Liquidum (in some markets Mineral Oil). Petrolatum is the semi-solid form known as petroleum jelly or vaseline. Related ingredients include Paraffin (hard paraffin wax), Cera Microcristallina (microcrystalline wax), Ozokerite and Ceresin.
In cosmetics these ingredients act mainly as emollients and occlusives: they soften the skin surface and form a film that slows down water loss. They are used in body lotions, hand and lip care, ointment-like creams, baby care, cleansing oils and make-up removers.
Why formulators use them
Petrolatum is one of the most effective occlusive ingredients known: a thin layer considerably reduces water loss from the skin. Mineral oils are also chemically stable, do not go rancid like many plant oils, have almost no smell and rarely cause contact allergy.
These properties make them useful in products for very dry or chapped skin and in simple formulas with few ingredients. Their main drawback for many users is the feel: rich, sometimes greasy or shiny, especially at high concentrations.
Refinement and purity
The quality of mineral oil depends on refining. Crude oil fractions contain mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH), some of which are of health concern; refining for cosmetic and pharmaceutical use is designed to remove them to very low levels. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical grades are therefore very different from technical oils.
EU rules address this through Annex II of the Cosmetics Regulation, which lists many petroleum-derived substances as prohibited unless their full refining history is known and it can be shown that the material from which they are made is not carcinogenic. Because lip products are partly swallowed, mineral oils in lip care have attracted particular attention, and industry recommendations aim to keep aromatic hydrocarbons as low as technically possible.
Common myths
“Mineral oil suffocates the skin.” Skin does not breathe through its surface in the way the phrase suggests. Occlusive films slow water evaporation, which is exactly why they are used; they do not cut the skin off from oxygen in any harmful way.
“Mineral oil clogs pores.” Opinions differ between sources, and many comedogenicity charts rate cosmetic-grade mineral oil low. As with any ingredient, the whole formula and the individual skin matter more than one name on the list. “Mineral oil is toxic.” The concerns discussed by scientists relate to impurities and poorly refined grades, not to the highly refined materials permitted in cosmetics.
Legitimate reasons to choose differently
Some people prefer products without mineral oils for reasons that have nothing to do with safety: they dislike the texture, they want ingredients from renewable sources, or they prefer plant-based formulas. These are personal choices.
Alternatives with emollient or occlusive functions include Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, plant butters such as Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, waxes such as Cera Alba, Lanolin and silicones such as Dimethicone. Each has its own properties and limitations; none is automatically better.
What the label does not tell you
The INCI name Paraffinum Liquidum or Petrolatum does not show the grade, the refining process or the residual aromatic content. You will not see whether the raw material meets pharmacopoeia specifications, although reputable manufacturers use grades suitable for cosmetics and must have them evaluated in the safety assessment.
Nor does the label tell you how a product will feel on your skin. If you have a skin condition and are unsure which type of base suits you, a pharmacist or dermatologist can help you choose.