Plant oils in cosmetics: how to read Latin INCI names (argan, jojoba, sweet almond, sunflower and more)
Argan, jojoba or sunflower oil rarely appear on an INCI list under their everyday names. How the Latin naming system works, a decoder for the most common oils and what fatty acid profiles tell you.
Updated: 31 October 2026 · Reviewed by: Kamil Pyziak
How plant ingredients are named
INCI names for plant ingredients follow a simple pattern: the Latin genus and species of the plant, then the part of the plant used, then the type of ingredient. Argan oil becomes Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, sunflower oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and olive oil Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, because olive oil is pressed from the fruit. The same language is used in every EU country, so the list is readable wherever you buy the product.
Not every name includes the plant part. Some older or established names omit it, for example Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (sweet almond), Persea Gratissima Oil (avocado) or Cocos Nucifera Oil (coconut). The final word matters: Oil is the fatty oil, Extract is an extract made with a solvent such as water, glycerin or alcohol, Butter is a solid fat, and Unsaponifiables is the non-fatty-acid fraction of an oil.
A decoder for common oils
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil – argan. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil – jojoba. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil – sweet almond. Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil – apricot kernel. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil – sunflower. Olea Europaea Fruit Oil – olive. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil – grape seed. Ricinus Communis Seed Oil – castor. Persea Gratissima Oil – avocado. Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil – sesame. Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil – linseed (flax).
Rosehip oil may appear as Rosa Canina Fruit Oil or Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, depending on the species and part used. Macadamia can be Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil or Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil. Evening primrose is Oenothera Biennis Oil. Knowing a few genus names – Prunus, Rosa, Helianthus, Olea – lets you work out many others.
Jojoba and castor: two special cases
Most plant oils are triglycerides – glycerin bound to three fatty acids. Jojoba is an exception: chemically it is a liquid wax made of esters of long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols. That makes it very stable against oxidation and gives it a light, non-greasy feel. Jojoba Esters, by contrast, are derivatives of jojoba oil, used for example as emollients or, in bead form, as exfoliants.
Castor oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, is dominated by one unusual fatty acid, ricinoleic acid, which makes it thick and sticky. It is valued in lipsticks and lip glosses for shine and pigment dispersion. Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a hard wax, and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a solubiliser – three ingredients from the same plant with very different jobs.
What fatty acid profiles tell you
Plant oils differ in their dominant fatty acids. Olive, sweet almond and avocado oils are rich in oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid, and feel richer. Standard sunflower, grape seed and rosehip oils are rich in linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid, and are often described as lighter. Rosehip and linseed also contain alpha-linolenic acid. Argan sits in between, with significant amounts of both oleic and linoleic acid.
The more polyunsaturated an oil, the faster it tends to go rancid. That is why oils such as rosehip or linseed are often accompanied by Tocopherol (vitamin E) or other antioxidants. There is also a high-oleic sunflower oil bred for stability; its INCI name is Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil.
Plant oils vs. essential oils
Fatty plant oils and essential oils are completely different ingredients. Essential oils are volatile, fragrant mixtures obtained mostly by distillation or, for citrus peel, by cold pressing. Their INCI names often refer to the leaf, flower or peel, for example Lavandula Angustifolia Oil or Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, and they can contain fragrance allergens that must be declared above certain levels.
A fatty oil such as sunflower or argan is not a fragrance ingredient. If a list contains both, the fatty oil is usually higher up, while the essential oil appears near the end along with fragrance allergens such as Linalool or Limonene. Our separate guide on essential oils covers them in detail.
What the label does not tell you
The INCI name does not reveal whether an oil is cold-pressed or refined, virgin or deodorised, organic or conventional, or where it was grown. Two products with Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil on the list can contain very different qualities and amounts of argan.
Marketing names such as “golden argan elixir” do not have to match the INCI list; the list is the legal declaration. Nut and seed oils can matter for people with food allergies, and sweet almond oil comes from a tree nut. If you have an allergy, ask a doctor or pharmacist before using such products.