Preservatives in cosmetics: what the names mean
Why water-based products need preservation, how preservatives are regulated in the EU and what “preservative-free” usually means.
Updated: 30 October 2026 · Reviewed by: Kamil Pyziak
Why preservatives are needed
Products that contain water can support the growth of bacteria, yeasts and moulds, especially once opened and touched with fingers. Preservatives keep a product safe to use during its shelf life and the period after opening shown by the open-jar symbol.
How they are regulated in the EU
Only substances listed in Annex V of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 may be used as preservatives, each with a maximum concentration and, for some, conditions of use. Examples include phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol and chlorphenesin. The safety of these substances is assessed by the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.
Ingredients that support preservation
Formulators often combine a low level of an Annex V preservative with ingredients that are not classed as preservatives but make products harder for microbes to grow in, such as caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-hexanediol or chelating agents like sodium gluconate. Airless packaging and low water content also help.
What “preservative-free” usually means
A “preservative-free” claim usually means that no Annex V substance is used, not that the product has no protection against microbes. Products without any preservation system are typically anhydrous (oils, balms, powders) or packed in single-use or sterile containers.
Reading the list
Preservatives are usually used below 1%, so they often appear towards the end of the list where order is free. Their position does not indicate how much is present.